June 30, Kumosi, Part II

It was lightly misting for a few minutes, but nothing serious.  I walked down the road a little ways and took a few pictures. I walked by some of the housing for the junior faculty, at least that is what Chuks later told me they were.  As seems to be the case with most universities in Ghana, the faculty and staff live on campus.  We did see some of the faculty have signs in front of their places indicating who lives there.  There is also a large impressive building that Chuks says is only available to senior faculty as a type of lounge or perhaps club.

About 11:00 am the four of us headed out.  Jeff is feeling much better.  Sue thought she was getting a touch of the stomach thing so took a pill this morning.  We walked a little ways and then caught a cab.  Our destination was a museum adjacent to the palace of the King of the Asantis, the major tribe of much of Ghana and beyond.  We watch a short video that was well done about the history of the Asanti kings then toured the museum.  No pictures allowed.  The museum used to be the palace but now the king lives next door.  Naturally there was gift shop but nothing of particular interest.  

Next we walked to  the major market of the city. I have been trying to think of a way to describe what the markets are like.  The closest I have come up with so far is to think about the State Fair except it is not as well organized, there are people driving everywhere in addition to thousands on foot and it doesn't end after 10 days.  There also seems to be limited garbage cleanup.  We were lucky it was Sunday because the market was not as full of people as during the week.Our major goal was an artist colony called the Cultural Center.  We just had to get through the market to get there.  Chuks estimated it to be a 10 to 15 minute walk so it took us about 30 minutes.  

The Cultural Center was much less crowded.  Most of the buildings were closed.  Chuks found an artist he knows and his shop was open.  He is a painter.  Sue's was interested in buying some of his paintings.  We arrived at the  shop about 12:30.  I looked around for a few minutes at the paintings and the carvings next door, then had a seat.  Jeff was sitting on the sidewalk already.  Chuks had wandered off a bit and was sitting in the shade.  Jeff and I talked for a bit, then Sue called to him so I joined Chuks.  Fortunately, I had brought my new Jeffrey Archer book so I started to read.  It had been very warm and muggy when we were walking so the shade felt good.  About 2:30 a young man came by to survey me.  I am afraid I wasn't a very good subject.  The survey was about music, especially Ghana music.  I told him I had not listened to enough to form an opinion.  I was able to ask four or five of his questions, but I don't buy much music and really only listen to Western music on the radio.  By this time Chuks had joined Sue and Jeff and bought a painting so I ended the survey and joined them.  Sue had bought a couple of paintings I believe and was haggling about a couple of rugs from the shop that I thought was carvings.  Anyway she didn't buy the rugs and we were off.

We caught a taxi back to the guest house without incident, just the normal weaving from lane to lane and cutting off other cars and in turn being cut off by others and avoiding motorcycles and pedestrians.  I think traffic is worse here in Kumosi then in the parts of Accra or Cape Coast that we have seen.  We often sit stalled in traffic for several minutes.  Meanwhile, sellers walk by the cars selling anything portable.  It is not uncommon for several cars or large trucks (lorries) to be simply stopped in the right driving lane.  They may have broken down, have a flat tire or who knows.  You just suddenly lose a lane of the  road.  Occasionally the stalled vehicle will be in the middle of the road or even in an intersection.  Sometimes there are people working on or under it, sometimes no one appears to be around who has anything to do with the vehicle.  Sue, Jeff and I had a late lunch/dinner and sat around until about 5:30.  Just after we walked out of the restaurant we met Chuks.  He was just coming in to eat.  I have no idea what he had been doing, perhaps resting in his room.

Every time I walk through the guest house lobby I ask if the Internet is likely to come back up.  Last night I was told maybe this morning.  This morning I was told maybe this afternoon.  Later I was told it comes up and down.  Tonight I was told it might be up in the morning.  You get the picture.

After we ate I came back to my room and sat on my little balcony and read.  It was quite relaxing.  I came in when it got too dark to read and turned on the air conditioning.  Everything works well at this guest house except the Internet.  The plan for tomorrow is to have breakfast and be packed ready to leave at 9:00 am.  Chuks says it is a 5 hour drive back to Accra.  Of course with traffic we can easily add an hour or two to that.  I believe we are taking a taxi to some type of bus station (I use that term loosely) and take a bus back to Accra.  Chuks describes the bus as a like a Greyhound.  He has already told Jeff and Sue that they will have to pay extra for their luggage.

Today was a lower key day, which I was OK with. Chuks has mentioned that he has only been able to make contact with one person from the university about the project.  I am unclear if he has had contact with her in the past several months or since we have been here.  He said she might call him after she went to church, but I correctly predicted that there would be no contact with the KNUST university faculty for us.  I just don't think they are interested.

One other quick thought that I have not commented on.  Religion  is very prevalent here.  Accra was almost entirely Christian with most of the religions being Protestant.  I have seen Baptist, Methodist, Episcopal, Seven Day Advent and Mormon Churches.  Religious signs and mottos are everywhere, billboards, written on buildings, taxis, private cars, road signs, any flat surface.  I saw Dr. Jesus Fast Food, Sis Mary Food among others.  Cape Coast was largely Christian but a few muslims.  The women have there hair covered but not a lot of burkkas (spelling?).  As we traveled north, the Muslims increased and the Christians decreased.  Kumasi seems to be a real mix.  One section of town will be Christian and another will be Muslim.  It does not seem to be as strict Muslim as in the Middle East, judging from the clothing.  The Somalis in St. Cloud dress more traditionally than the Muslims appear to do here.  

Second quick note, domesticated animals.  Chickens and goats are everywhere.  I have yet to see a place with people that did not have chickens and goats running around freely.  Talk about free range chicken! The only time I have seen chickens in any type of containment is in cages for sale on side of the road/street in the cities.   I have seen cats once or twice and a few dogs, sometimes in the villages and sometimes in the cities.  We have seen a few herds of cattle especially on the trip to Mole and back.  The only time we have seen pigs is in areas that looked to be heavily Muslim, which I do not understand.

Third quick note, villages.  On the road to and from Mole we passed innumerable villages.  Towards the south they are usually made out of concrete blocks sometimes with corrugated steel roofs and sometimes thatched. Further north they were more likely made out of mud with thatched roofs, sometimes round and sometimes square.  In the south, people on side of the roads and in the roads are carrying things to sell on top of their heads, fresh fruit, baked goods, bread, toilet paper, water to sell, etc.  In the north people are carrying things they need on top of their heads, firewood, food, water, laundry, etc.